Gel Nails: Building With Forms For Beginners (2025)

Creating gel nails with forms is a great way to get salon-quality nails without the salon price tag. With some practice, you can master the art of gel nails and express your unique style through various colours, designs, and shapes. The process involves applying forms to your natural nails, which act as a foundation for the gel polish, allowing you to achieve your desired length and shape. The forms come in different sizes and can be adjusted to fit your nails snugly. After applying the forms, you'll need to use a UV or LED lamp to cure the gel and harden it into place. Once cured, you can shape and refine your nails, and finally, add a top coat for a glossy finish.

Prepare nails: clean, file, and buff

Preparing your nails is a crucial step in the gel manicure process. It ensures that your manicure looks better and lasts longer, and it also keeps your natural nails healthy. Here is a step-by-step guide to preparing your nails for gel polish:

Clean

Use cleanser wipes to clean your nails and ensure they are grease-free and free of any residual dirt or dead skin cells. Push back your cuticles using a cuticle pusher or the flat side of a prep and remove pusher. Then, use the pointed side to gently go under the cuticle and remove dead skin cells. This will provide a cleaner surface for the gel polish and prevent outgrowth. Wipe your nails with cleanser again to remove any remaining dirt or oil.

File

Choose the nail shape that suits you and file your nails to that shape. You can use a hand file to smooth the free edge and prevent any jaggedness. File the nail surface to make it slightly rough so that the gel has something to hold on to. This is a crucial step to ensure the gel polish adheres properly and lasts longer.

Buff

Buff your nails with a nail buffer to smooth and refine the nail surface further. This step is especially important if you are planning to add length or extensions to your nails, as it will help the gel polish adhere better and create a more natural-looking transition between your natural nail and the extension.

Apply a base coat or primer

After preparing your nails by filing, buffing, and cleansing, it's time to apply a base coat or primer. This step will depend on the builder gel you're using, so check the instructions on the packaging. Some builder gels have a built-in base coat, so you can skip this step if that's the case.

If your builder gel requires a base coat or primer, apply a thin layer to each nail, covering the entire nail surface. Be careful not to get any product on the surrounding skin or cuticles. The base coat acts as a foundation for the builder gel, ensuring a smooth and even application. It is recommended to use a fine, high-quality brush for precise application. A quality brush will help you achieve a smooth and even layer of the base coat.

If you are using nail forms, apply the base coat before attaching the forms to your natural nails. Nail forms are paper or plastic templates that wrap around your fingers and help shape the gel nail extensions. They come in various shapes and sizes, so choose the ones that fit your nails snugly without being too tight or too loose.

Once you have applied the base coat or primer, you can proceed to the next step of curing it under your nail lamp, if needed. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the recommended curing time.

Apply builder gel

The application process for builder gel will depend on the brand you are using. Some brands require you to use a primer or base coat first, while others can be applied directly to the nail. If you are applying the gel to the natural nail only, it can be built up to the desired thickness and shape in several coats, curing between each layer. If you are extending the nail, apply your nail tip or form before applying the gel.

• Prepare the nails: Clean, file, and buff the nails. Push back and trim the cuticles. Wipe the nail with a lint-free pad using a nail cleanser or acetone.
• Apply a base coat or primer if your builder gel requires one. Cure under a nail lamp if needed.
• Apply the builder gel. If you are using bottled builder gel, you can paint it on. If you are using a gel pot, use a nail brush to pick up a small amount. Stay away from the cuticle and be sure to cover the free edge.
• Allow the gel to settle for a few seconds to ensure it is applied evenly. Builder gel tends to 'self-level'.
• Cure under an LED/UV lamp. Check the instructions for your chosen builder gel to determine the type of lamp and curing time.
• Apply a second coat if needed, and cure again.
• Clean the nail with a lint-free wipe and isopropyl alcohol to remove any tackiness.
• File the nail to perfect the desired shape and even out any areas that might be too thick.
• Apply a colour or top coat: Wipe the nail clean and apply your top coat.

It is important to note that builder gel is not recommended for severely damaged nails, as it can cause additional stress or infection.

Cure nails under a UV or LED lamp

Curing your nails under a UV or LED lamp is an essential step in the gel nail process. The UV or LED lamp emits UV radiation, which hardens or 'cures' the gel polish. This process usually takes around 2-3 minutes per coat, but it can be quicker with an LED lamp, which emits a greater intensity of UV and therefore cures the polish faster. LED lamps also tend to last longer and do not need replacement bulbs like UV lamps. However, not all gel polishes can be cured by an LED lamp, and some polishes are designed specifically for UV nail lamps.

When curing your nails, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for the recommended curing time. You should also be careful not to get any product on the surrounding skin or cuticles, as this can cause staining. To avoid an uncomfortable sensation of heat, don't build the nail too thick. If you are sensitive to the thermal aspect of the UV light, keep your hand in front of the light for 30-40 seconds, after which a 30-second cure will not feel like anything at all.

It is also important to be aware of the risks associated with UV nail lamps. UV nail products can be under-cured, over-cured, or properly cured, and under-curing is a common problem that can cause skin irritation and allergies. To avoid this, it is recommended to use a high-wattage lamp, as higher-watt bulbs can cure gel polish faster and reduce the risk of under-curing. Additionally, UV lamps can be damaging to the skin, so it is advisable to wear protective gloves or apply SPF 30+ to your hands for extra protection before placing them under the lamp.

Remove forms and file nails

Once you've cured your nails under the lamp and are happy with the length and shape, it's time to remove the forms and file your nails.

Start by soaking your nails in warm water for a few minutes to help loosen the forms. Then, carefully peel off the forms using tweezers. Be gentle and take your time to avoid damaging your nails.

After removing the forms, use a nail file to shape the edges and refine the nail shape. Focus on achieving your desired shape, whether it's square, oval, or something more unique. Be sure to be gentle and careful during this step to avoid over-filing or creating sharp edges.

Filing your nails will help create a smooth and even finish, removing any rough edges or ridges. It is important to file in one direction only, taking care not to dig into the nail surface. You can also use a buffing block at this stage to smooth the surface and create a flawless finish.

Finally, apply cuticle oil or a nourishing cream to the skin around your nails to keep them healthy and hydrated. This step will help condition your cuticles and prevent dryness.

Frequently asked questions